A refuge by the lake: The chapel of Nossa Senhora das Vitórias

The Furnas Valley is one of the most geothermally active and vibrant areas of São Miguel, with its fumaroles and bubbling waters born from the earth’s energy. 

But simply wandering around the southern edge of the vast Lagoa das Furnas reveals a completely different setting, defined by silence, dense greenery, and quietude.

It is here, framed almost scenically by the vegetation and reflecting in the serene waters of the lake, that we find the Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias (The Chapel of Our Lady of Victories). From afar, the building immediately captures your attention as an architectural rarity on the island, in the archipelago, and in the country: a neo-Gothic chapel, designed by the French architect André Breton, built with a surprising pink brick in perfect dialogue with the usual dark basalt stone.

Commissioned in the late 19th century by José do Canto, an illustrious botanist, intellectual, and unique figure on the island, this building wasn’t built by chance. It was the fulfillment of a vow made asking for his wife’s recovery following a serious illness.

Far from being a mere religious landmark, the chapel is, at its heart, a declaration of love blended into the landscape. José do Canto surrounded it with an extensive woodland garden, planting rare botanical species, exotic camellias, and tree ferns that have grown for over a century, surrounding the chapel.

Why should you include the Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias in your itinerary?

On a day out exploring Furnas, it is natural for the famous cozido, the boiling mud pools, or the thermal baths to take priority on your itinerary. They are unmissable experiences and mandatory stops. However, visiting the Capela das Vitórias and the adjacent woodland garden provides the essential counterpoint to this volcanic restlessness. 

This side of the lake is the perfect refuge for those looking to slow down. The walking trail around the chapel is flat, easy, and accessible to all ages, unfolding beneath a cool canopy of mature trees and inviting you to a picnic, with a blanket spread on the ground, accompanied by Micaelense delights such as a bolo lêvedo or some queijadas to elevate the experience. 

It’s also the ideal spot for photography enthusiasts, with the chapel’s large ogival stained glass windows contrast beautifully with the forest and the water, or simply for anyone who wants to take a slow walk through a setting that seems straight out of a 19th-century novel. 

This is a simple yet highly memorable way to balance your day and experience the more mysterious and monumental side of Furnas.